It was a week of drama, designer comeback, theatrical spectacle, veteran models on ramp, and of-course couture at Hyundai India Couture Week (ICW).
Photo: Amit Aggarwal at Hyundai India Couture Week'24
India Couture Week 2024 concluded on July 31st with Falguni Shane Peacock's grand finale, leaving behind a week of spectacular fashion moments and stirring discussions. The collection, a blend of silks and velvets adorned with parrots, peacocks, and palaces, encapsulated the essence of Indian opulence. As the dust settles, the internet is rife with opinions—everyone, it seems, is a fashion critic today. But how valid are these myriad voices?
For some designers, the couture took center stage; for others, it was the theatrical backdrops that stole the show. The opening day set a high bar with Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla's "Disco Mujra" themed collection, "Asal and Mard." With a lavish Haveli-inspired set, classical dance performances, and an original soundtrack by Akshay and IP, the show was a sensory extravaganza. Known for turning fashion into entertainment, AJSK did not disappoint.
Siddartha Tytler's show was a marvel of creativity, featuring models on a moving conveyor belt around a central table adorned with flowers, candles, and delicacies. The theme, "Caligula's Feast," was a Roman affair brought to life with an opulent flourish.
Tarun Tahiliani's much-talked-about show saw a repeat performance due to an overbooked audience, with models being paid 50 percent extra to walk again — a testament to valuing the people who sustain the fashion industry. This unintentional encore turned a hiccup into a historic moment in high fashion.
One of the most talked-about moments was when Anaita Shroff Adajania, Bollywood’s favorite stylist, walked the ramp in an androgynous attire for designer Kunal Rawal. Not a model nor a film star, Adajania brought authenticity and identity to the runway, challenging the norms of celebrity-centric fashion shows.
Speaking of celebrities, Telugu cinema actor Rashmika Mandanna, Bollywood's Aditya Roy Kapur, and Sonakshi Sinha graced the runway, as expected. The presence of film stars often overshadows the collections, leading to a debate about whether the focus should be on the craftsmanship or the star power. Tarun Tahiliani, Amit Aggarwal, and JJ Valaya managed to let their collections speak for themselves, but the influence of celebrities is undeniable.
Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla made a bold statement by bringing veteran models Carol Gracias, Namit Khanna, and Nayanika Chatterjee to the runway, evoking the glory days of supermodels and providing a refreshing contrast to the celebrity-dominated shows.
Influencer Masoom Minawala's commentary on the financial aspect of fashion weeks highlighted a critical point: "Where's the couture cash? Where are the buyers?" Minawala argued that the influential front-row attendees, though not always buyers themselves, help channel the message of the show to potential clients in smaller towns and among NRIs. Thus, the reach and impact of these shows extend beyond the immediate audience.
The perennial debate about the dominance of lehengas in Indian fashion weeks continues, but there were notable exceptions. Amit Aggarwal's "ANTEVORTA" collection showcased futuristic couture with signature curves and sculptural silhouettes, weaving a story of a cosmic world connected by time and the universe.
Rimzim Dadu's "Stucco" collection reimagined the Renaissance era with textural masterpieces, creating Baroque-inspired couture that honored the past while sculpting a tactile future. While the grandeur expected from Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta was present, it was Aggarwal and Dadu who truly pushed the boundaries of creativity.
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